The Art of Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Suit

HENRICKS
Aug 14
3 min read

A suit’s silhouette might catch the eye, but its fabric is what truly defines its character, performance, and longevity. Whether you’re investing in your first custom suit or adding to a well-curated wardrobe, understanding fabric is essential. At Henrick’s Custom Suits, we guide you through a hands-on selection process, working with swatches from the world’s best mills in Italy and the UK. Here’s what to know before you choose.

1. The Role of Fabric Weight

Lightweight (190–230g / 6–8 oz): Ideal for warmer months or tropical climates. Fabrics in this range feel airy and breathable, making them perfect for spring weddings or summer board meetings. Common examples: tropical wool, cotton blends, linen.

Midweight (250–310g / 8–11 oz): The most versatile option. Midweight fabrics are comfortable year-round in California’s mild climate and hold their shape well. Common examples: worsted wool, wool-silk blends.

Heavyweight (320g+ / 11+ oz): Best for cooler climates or fall/winter wardrobes. Heavyweight fabrics drape beautifully and resist wrinkles, giving the suit a structured, elegant presence. Examples: flannel, tweed, cavalry twill.

2. Wool: The Cornerstone of Men’s Tailoring

Wool is the most commonly used suiting fabric, and for good reason:

Durability: Properly cared for, a high-quality wool suit can last decades.
Breathability: Natural fibers allow airflow while retaining warmth when needed.
Drape: Wool hangs smoothly, creating a sharp silhouette.

At Henrick’s, we often recommend Super 100s–130s for everyday suits — they balance softness with longevity. Super 150s and above are finer and lighter, perfect for special occasion suits where luxury is the priority.

3. Linen: Effortless Summer Style

Linen is known for its relaxed, breezy feel. Its natural texture gives it a casual elegance, especially in light tans, creams, and pastels.

Pros: Highly breathable, light, and perfect for hot days.
Cons: Wrinkles easily — but in summer settings, that lived-in look is part of the charm.
Henrick’s Tip: We often suggest a wool-linen blend to keep the crispness of wool with the breathability of linen.

4. Cotton: Understated Versatility

Cotton suits are less common than wool or linen, but they offer a refined, slightly more casual look. They’re perfect for spring and summer events where a traditional business wool might feel too formal.

Pros: Breathable, lightweight, comfortable.
Cons: Less drape than wool, can crease more easily.
Best For: Garden parties, daytime events, business-casual offices.

5. Flannel: Soft Warmth for Cooler Weather

Flannel isn’t just for plaid shirts. Wool flannel suiting has a brushed finish that feels soft to the touch and looks especially refined in charcoal, navy, or deep brown.

Pros: Warm, luxurious feel; excellent drape.
Cons: Heavier, not ideal for hot climates.
Henrick’s Tip: A mid-grey flannel suit is a timeless winter staple that pairs with everything from black Oxfords to brown brogues.

6. Pattern & Texture Choices

Fabric isn’t just about fiber — patterns and textures add personality to your suit.

Solids: Timeless and versatile; a must-have for business wardrobes.
Pinstripes: Convey authority and elongate the body visually.
Checks & Windowpanes: Bolder, more fashion-forward; work well as statement suits.
Hopsack & Basket Weave: Add subtle texture and breathability.

At Henrick’s, we help clients balance classic and modern by suggesting one versatile solid and one pattern for a complete starting wardrobe.

7. Matching Fabric to Lifestyle

Your lifestyle should guide your choice:

Frequent Traveler: Wrinkle-resistant wool blends keep you looking sharp after long flights.
Outdoor Events: Linen or cotton blends keep you cool without sacrificing style.
Daily Office Wear: Mid weight wool in a neutral tone is unbeatable for durability and professionalism.

The Henrick’s Process

When you visit our showroom, fabric selection is an experience in itself. We’ll:

Discuss when and where you’ll wear the suit.
Present curated swatches from Italian and UK mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Scabal, and Marzoni.
Guide you through texture, pattern, and weight, explaining how each will perform over time.
Pair your chosen cloth with linings, buttons, and stitching details for a truly bespoke look.